Cinque Terre Day Trip to Portovenere
Everyone knows there are five Cinque Terre villages, but did you know there is another not-to-be-missed village that borders the region? Portovenere, Italy on the Ligurian Sea is sometimes referred to as the sixth Cinque Terre town. Our article includes tips for taking a day trip from any of the Cinque Terre towns to the hidden gem of Portovenere (aka Porto Venere).
Arrive in Portovenere by sea for the most stunning introduction. Your first glimpse of the town will be the Chiesa di San Pietro, a 13th century church that sits on a rocky peninsula jutting into the Bay of Poets. The eye next travels to Castle Doria, a medieval fortress that rests high on a hill. Finally, as you pull into port, a row of colorful villas along the waterfront captures the attention.
Use our travel blog post to learn how to get to Portovenere from the Cinque Terre, when to go, and what to do on one day in Portovenere.
ITALIAN RIVIERA & CINQUE TERRE REGION
The Italian Riviera is a region on Italy’s northwest coast that is sandwiched between a chain of mountains and the Ligurian Sea (an arm of the Mediterranean Sea). Within this region, lies the Cinque Terre (Five Lands). Its villages (Montorosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore), and the surrounding hillsides, are a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Portovenere is the next village over from Riomagiorre. It, along with the nearby islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto, make up the Porto Venere Regional Natural Park. They are also designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
WHY TAKE A CINQUE TERRE DAY TRIP TO PORTOVENERE
While Portovenere has many of the same things that make the other Cinque Terre towns so charming (sunny days, gorgeous hikes, medieval ruins, and colorful walkable villages), the destination has its own distinctive appeal.
Most importantly, Portovenere does not have a train station, and is not one of the “official” Cinque Terre towns. As such, Portovenere misses the mid-day crush of tourists from cruise ships and big cities (Florence, Milan, and Pisa) that can overwhelm the five villages between 11am and 4pm for much of the year. Portovenere at mid-day gets busy, but seems almost serene in comparison to the Cinque Terre crowds.
Take a Cinque Terre day trip to Portovenere to soak up the beautiful cultural, heritage, and natural sites of the UNESCO site, without fighting a massive mid-day crowd.
GETTING TO PORTOVENERE FROM THE CINQUE TERRE
By Ferry
The easiest, and most scenic, way to travel from the Cinque Terre port towns (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Vernazza, and Monterosso) to Portovenere is by ferry. Tickets are around $40 per person. The ferry season runs March thru November. (From Corniglia, take the train to a port village and the ferry from there.)
Purchase a one-day roundtrip Levanto – Cinque Terre – Portovenere – La Spezia hop-on hop-off ticket, and board the local Cinque Terre ferry boat. It is about a 1.5 hour ride from the furthest village (Monterosso), and a 30 minute ride from the closest (Riomaggiore), to Portovenere. You will see all five of the Cinque Terre towns and Portovenere from the sea. It’s a breathtaking ride. Find ferry tickets here.
By Train
Portovenere does not have a train station. From any of the Cinque Terre towns take the train to La Spezia. From here, it is about a 10 minute walk from the train depot to the bus station or a car rental agency. Find train tickets here.
By Bus
Buses run between Las Spezia and Portovenere about every 30 minutes. Bus tickets must be purchased before boarding. Tickets are sold in local Tabaccheria shops (look for a “T” outside the shop), or at bus company kiosks. In high season, buses often run late and fill up fast (you may need to wait awhile to board). Find bus tickets here.
By Car
Take the train to La Spezia and walk to a car rental agency. There are several close to the bus station. From La Spezia it is a 20-30 minute drive into town. Portovenere differs from the Cinque Terra villages in that you can drive right into town and park next to Old Town. Find car rental prices here.
CINQUE TERRE AND PORTOVENERE TOURS
To see Portovenere, many travelers choose a tour that bundles several locations along the coast of the Italian Riviera into one day. Here is a sampling of well-reviewed tours:
BEST TIME TO VISIT PORTOVENERE
Month
Randy and I think the best months to visit Portovenere are May, June, and September. During these months all of the main attractions are open, its hot enough to swim, the flowers are in bloom, and crowds are thick – but not at their heaviest (avoid July and August for this reason). In October and November, the Italian Riviera gets the most rain. In the winter months the ferry is not running and many attractions and businesses close.
Time of Day
Try to arrive on the first ferry run of the day (usually in the late morning), before it gets too hot and the crowd thickens. If you arrive by bus or car, try to arrive between 9 and 10am (any earlier and many sites/businesses may not be open).
CINQUE TERRE DAY TRIP TO PORTOVENERE MAP
As written, this itinerary is about a 1.86 mile (3 km) walk. There is a small fee to enter Doria’s Castle. Otherwise, all of the sights are free.
CINQUE TERRE DAY TRIP TO PORTOVENERE ITINERARY
Waterfront
After disembarking the ferry, begin your day on Portovenere’s waterfront. Along the harbor, enjoy the fishing boats and luxury yachts bobbing in the harbor. Stroll past the row of multi-colored tower houses. The tall, thin, connected structures were a medieval defense mechanism designed to ward off marauding pirates.
Old Town
To enter Old Town, retrace your route along the waterfront and walk through the Porta de Borgo (city gate). The gate, and the attached city walls that run up the hill to Doria Castle, are remnants of the Portovenere’s ancient defenses.
Walk Old Town’s main street, Via Giovanni Capellini, and the maze of alleys (carruggi) that dart off of it. This area is mostly pedestrianized. The only cars you are likely to see are delivery or emergency vehicles.
Chiesa di San Pietro
Next, head to the church that looks like a castle extending into the Ligurian Sea. The Chiesa di San Pietro (Church of St. Peter) is a working community church. It was erected in 1277 over a Pagan temple to the Goddess Venus (“Venere” – the town’s namesake). The walkway (loggia) approaching the black and white striped church is striking (and slippery!). After viewing the church, climb to its roof for better views.
Byron’s Grotto
Close to the church is a stairway descending to a sheltered cove called Byron’s Grotto. The rocky swimming hole was named after the poet Lord Byron, who used to bathe in the area with Keats Shelley and other artists (hence, the bay came to known as the “Bay of Poets”). Today, the area is a popular place to swim, snorkel, and sunbathe. Note: there are no lifeguards on duty.
Portovenere Communal Cemetery
Trekking uphill from Byron’s Grotto pass the Statue of Mother Nature. Then, climb on to the Portovenere Communal Cemetery. If open, the cemetery is free to stroll. Serene and striking, the white stones and simple crosses are beautiful against the endless blue of the sky and Ligurian Sea.
Church of San Lorenzo
Just a short stroll from the cemetery is the Church of San Lorenzo. The pretty neighborhood church has a square out front, and ornate alter. The Romanesque church is well-known for its Sanctuary to the White Madonna.
Doria Castle
Next, walk uphill for a bit to Doria Castle (Castello Doria). The medieval Genovese-military fortress is fun to tour. In varying states of ruin, there are towers, ramparts, defensive walls, gardens, and castle rooms to investigate. There is a small fee to enter (we paid $5 euros each). Although we toured the grounds at mid-day, it was almost empty. We enjoyed the most unforgettable panoramas in peaceful solitude.
New Town
From Doria Castle, take a maze of narrow stone staircases downward until you reach the war memorial by the city gate.
Then, head down to the waterfront and away from Old Town. Walk the long promenade that borders the sea. Shop the wares that vendors arrange by the waterfront, and walk the docks of the marinas. Visit the stores, galleries, restaurants, and penisones (small hotels) along the shore.
The ferry terminal is a short walk from New Town.
Spero che ti piaccia la giornata (hope you enjoy your day), Laura and Randy
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